🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.